The wine to pair with matsutake (pine mushroom) is not a heavy red but a delicate, savory red that does not overwhelm its aroma, such as Nebbiolo from Piedmont. Matsutake is one of Japan's great autumn ingredients, enjoyed for its aroma more than its taste. That is exactly why the wine, too, should be one that follows the aroma. Drawing on years of importing Italian wine, here is a glass to match this autumn treasure.
The myth that "a luxury ingredient needs a heavy red"
Because matsutake is a special treat, people often reach for a rich, powerful red. In fact it is the opposite. A young red with strong tannin, or a rich, heavily oaked white, will bury matsutake's delicate aroma. The appeal of matsutake is that clear fragrance and the refined umami it releases into dashi. What suits it is a light, mature red with clean acidity, fine-grained tannin, and aromas that suggest earth, fallen leaves, and mushrooms. Nebbiolo is a grape that has exactly those qualities.
Pairings by preparation
| Preparation | Wine to reach for |
|---|---|
| Grilled matsutake (sudachi, salt) | A delicate Nebbiolo, or a savory mineral white |
| Dobin-mushi (dashi broth) | A savory white, or a light red served slightly chilled |
| Matsutake rice | A light red, an aromatic white |
The key is "aroma" and "the umami of dashi." Match by delicacy rather than by the richness of a sauce, and both matsutake and wine shine.
What autumn in Piedmont teaches us
In Alba, the town in the northwest Italian region of Piedmont that is home to Nebbiolo, autumn brings the season of the white truffle (tartufo bianco). Around the time of the Alba White Truffle Fair, which began in 1929, the whole town fills with the scent of truffle and visitors arrive from around the world. And the wine locals reach for with that fragrant fungus is Nebbiolo, the wine of the land, redolent of earth and forest. An autumn delicacy built around aroma, met by a local red that follows the aroma. It is remarkably similar to the relationship between matsutake and wine in Japan.
How to enjoy it at the Japanese table
To pair Nebbiolo with grilled matsutake or dobin-mushi, serve it a touch cool (around 16°C). Too cold and the tannins feel hard, too warm and the aroma blurs. Open the bottle about 30 minutes before, or move it gently to a decanter (another vessel that lets it breathe), and the aroma unfurls softly. Nebbiolo's notes of earth and fallen leaves settle quietly over matsutake's aroma and the umami of the dashi. There is nothing flashy about it, and yet it is unforgettable.
Federico's picks
What I often pour with matsutake is Alessandro Rivetto's Langhe Nebbiolo. Made from the same Nebbiolo as Barolo, it is a red with acidity, fine-grained tannin, and forest-like aromas. It does not bury matsutake's delicacy, it lifts it gently. On days you prefer white, reach for the same region's Langhe Arneis. A dry white with umami and aroma, it also goes beautifully with the dashi of dobin-mushi.
How to choose and serving temperature
When choosing a red for matsutake, look for "soft tannin, with acidity and aroma, and a sense of maturity." Besides Nebbiolo, a delicate Sangiovese or a settled Pinot Noir works on the same idea. Serve at around 16°C in a slightly larger glass that lets the aroma rise. For mushroom pairings in general, see Wine with Mushrooms, and for Nebbiolo itself, see What is Nebbiolo.
FAQ
Q. Does white wine not work with matsutake?
A. It works well. A dry white with umami and aroma (such as Arneis) pairs especially nicely with dobin-mushi and grilled matsutake. For a red, choose a delicate Nebbiolo.
Q. Why is a heavy red no good?
A. Strong tannin or oak aromas cover matsutake's greatest appeal, its delicate fragrance.
Q. What is the common mistake?
A. Reaching for a rich red "because it is a luxury." Matsutake is an ingredient of aroma. Choose a light, fragrant bottle and it comes alive.
Q. Is it fine without a decanter?
A. No problem. Simply opening the bottle about 30 minutes ahead is enough for the aroma to open.
For autumn's star of aroma, a wine that answers with aroma. The matsutake season becomes a richer moment.
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