For an importer, choosing wine is not about stocking famous labels or the cheapest bottle. It is the work of tasting again and again, visiting producers, and singling out only the bottles that truly suit the Japanese table. It looks glamorous, but behind it lies a steady chain of judgment calls. Today I want to share how we actually choose a single bottle.
A common misconception: we do not choose by famous or cheap
People often assume importers simply line up famous labels. In fact it is the opposite. We search for a bottle that moves us even if it is unknown, and we pass on famous names if they do not suit the Japanese table. What I value most is not a score or a title, but a feeling: will this bottle bring happiness when it is opened at a table in Tokyo?
How a bottle is chosen, step by step
| Step | What we look at |
|---|---|
| Tasting | A true sense of place, a balance you never tire of |
| Getting to know the producer | Their approach in the vineyard and cellar, quality that does not waver year to year |
| Fit with the Japanese table | Whether it leans into washoku and everyday cooking |
| Price and logistics | A fair price, temperature-controlled shipping through the summer |
| Contract | Whether it is a relationship that can keep delivering |
The culture of tasting: Tuscany's anteprima
In Italy there is a tradition called the anteprima, a preview tasting where producers show their newest wines before they reach the shelves. In Tuscany the various appellation associations gather every February, and at Montalcino's Benvenuto Brunello, press and buyers taste the latest vintage together in the cloister of the Sant'Agostino monastery. It is still little known in Japan, but for us importers it is a crucial chance to confirm the year's quality with our own palate and decide which bottle to bring home to Japan. Before any label rating, we taste for ourselves first. That is the starting point of choosing.
Choosing for the Japanese table
Even when a wine is delicious, whether it suits the Japanese table is a different measure. What I always picture when I choose is white rice and dashi, dishes seasoned with soy and miso. Are the tannins not too strong; is there fruit and moderate acidity that does not overpower the food? Does it hold up even when chilled? And can it be delivered in good condition even in high summer (this is exactly why Swirl uses temperature-controlled shipping in the hot months)? More than fame, will you want to open it at your everyday table? Choose with that in mind and you arrive at a bottle you can enjoy every day at a reasonable price.
Federico's picks
One bottle chosen exactly this way is Terenzi Morellino di Scansano. A Sangiovese grown in vineyards near the sea in Tuscany's Maremma, it charms with supple fruit, soft tannins, and pleasant acidity. It leans into the sweet-savory seasonings of Japanese cooking as easily as into tomato-based pasta. Built on a long relationship with the producer and confirmed for its steady quality year after year, it is a bottle I can recommend with real confidence.
An importer's eye, for your own choosing
An importer's perspective works just as well for choosing a bottle at home. Before the name or the score, think first about what you will drink it with and whether you would open it every day at that price. Knowing a little of the story of the region and the producer makes the flavor much deeper. If you like to choose by grape, see What Is Sangiovese; if you prefer to choose by region, see What Are Maremma Wines.
Frequently asked questions
Q. Do importers choose the highest-scoring wines?
A. Scores are a reference, but not the priority. I weigh more heavily whether a wine suits the Japanese table and whether it is priced to enjoy every day.
Q. I worry about the quality of unknown producers.
A. That is exactly why we taste repeatedly and visit producers. Even unknown estates, if the vineyard and winemaking are honest, offer plenty of bottles that rival famous names.
Q. What is the common mistake or misconception?
A. The assumption that imported wine is expensive and only for special occasions. With the right approach, everyday bottles at reasonable prices are everywhere.
Q. Is quality safe even if I order in summer?
A. Swirl uses temperature-controlled shipping in the hot months. It is how we deliver the bottle we carefully chose in good condition.
Next time you choose a bottle, try to recall an importer's eye just a little. Your usual wine will become even more enjoyable.
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