What Wine Pairs with Buri (Japanese Yellowtail)? Sashimi, Teriyaki, Buri Daikon and Shabu-shabu with Italian Wine

Choose your buri wine by the dish

Rather than committing to one bottle, the smart move with buri (Japanese yellowtail) is to change the wine according to how it is cooked. A crisp white with real sea minerality for sashimi and salt-grilled buri, a light red for teriyaki and buri daikon, and something sparkling for shabu-shabu. Fatty winter buri covers a wide range of flavors, so the ideal partner shifts just as much.

As an Italian wine importer, I have poured wine with buri many times at Tokyo tables. Here is how to choose without hesitating, dish by dish.

A common myth: fish does not always mean white

People often say fish calls for white wine, but buri is not that simple. Fatty winter buri glazed as teriyaki or simmered as buri daikon has a sweet-savory seasoning and real depth, and a light red often suits it better. Delicate sashimi and shabu-shabu, on the other hand, are overwhelmed by an aromatic, heavy red. Instead of fish means white, think match the fat and the seasoning of the dish, and choosing wine for buri suddenly gets easy.

Buri dishes and wine at a glance

How style changes by origin: buri's Mediterranean cousin

Buri (Seriola quinqueradiata) actually has a Mediterranean cousin. In Italy it is called ricciola, a fish of the same genus Seriola. Along the coasts of Sicily and southern Italy, ricciola is grilled over charcoal or cooked acqua pazza (a fisherman's dish simmered with tomatoes and olives) and served with coastal whites such as Vermentino and Inzolia. This is barely known in Japan, but the instinct of pairing a rich, large fish with the local white echoes salt-grilled buri. That is exactly why Italy's coastal whites work so well with it.

Enjoying it in Japan: pick your bottle by fat and seasoning

Buri is in season in winter. Because both the fat and the cooking vary so much, matching the wine to the day's dish is the way to avoid a miss.

For sashimi and salt-grilled buri, a crisp white with a sense of the sea

Delicate sashimi and simple salt-grilled buri love a crisp white with minerality and citrus lift. What I often pour is Balbino, a Vermentino from Maremma on the Tuscan coast. Its briny, sea-breeze character rinses away the sweetness of the fat. Serve it lightly chilled, with both sashimi and shioyaki.

For teriyaki and buri daikon, a light red

Sweet-savory glazes and dashi-rich braises call for a gentle, low-tannin red. Piedmont's Barbera d'Alba, with bright acidity and cherry fruit, quarrels neither with the sweetness of teriyaki nor with the depth of buri daikon. A slight chill makes it even more drinkable.

For shabu-shabu, dry sparkling or a crisp white

Light buri shabu-shabu pairs beautifully with a dry sparkling such as Prosecco, or a crisp white. It resets the palate while letting you enjoy the elegant fat to the last slice.

Federico's picks

If in doubt, start with a versatile coastal white. The Maremma Vermentino Balbino handles everything from sashimi to salt-grilled buri and shabu-shabu. Sicily's Inzolia is another bottle whose soft fruit suits the fat of oily fish. For teriyaki and buri daikon, try the light Barbera d'Alba, served slightly chilled.

Tips on choosing and serving

• Serve whites lightly chilled (8 to 10C). Too cold and the aromatics close up, so take the bottle out of the fridge a little before pouring.
• Give light reds a light chill (13 to 15C). A slightly cooled red suits teriyaki and buri daikon well.
• Choose by the amount of fat. The fattier the fish, as with winter buri, the more a high-acid white or light red keeps the finish clean.

Frequently asked questions

Does red wine work with buri sashimi?

Delicate sashimi is usually overwhelmed by a tannic red. Go for a crisp white, or if you really want red, choose a very low-tannin style and serve it slightly chilled.

Is white wine wrong for teriyaki?

Not at all. But a sweet-savory glaze wants some depth, so a fruity light red is often more satisfying. If you prefer white, pick a style with firm acidity.

Does Italian wine suit Japanese simmered dishes like buri daikon?

Yes, very well. Dashi and sweet-soy braises pair nicely with a fruity light red (Barbera or Sangiovese), and they sit comfortably with the ginger too.

What is the most foolproof single bottle?

Keep a coastal dry white on hand. It spans sashimi, salt-grilled buri and shabu-shabu, so you will never be stuck on a buri night.

Buri season is also the season when the range of dishes widens. Match the wine to the day's plate and enjoy the pairing with Italian wine. For more, see wine with seafood and the Maremma wine guide.