Bosco del Merlo is a winery run by the Paladin family in Annone Veneto, in north-east Italy, right on the border between the regions of Veneto and Friuli. From Prosecco to Refosco, they keep crafting wines that carefully reflect the memory of their land. The first Italian sparkling wine I, Federico, ever poured for a guest in Tokyo was this producer's Prosecco. Today I would like to share a little of its story.
A family cellar named "the blackbird's wood"
The name Bosco del Merlo comes from an old place-name found on maps of this area. "Bosco" means wood, and "merlo" means blackbird. The name simply preserves the memory of the forests that once covered these lands. It has nothing to do with the Merlot grape.
The roots go back to 1962, when Valentino Paladin first began working the vines here. In 1977 he founded Bosco del Merlo in Annone Veneto. His children (Carlo, Lucia and Roberto) carried on their father's passion, and today the third generation, Francesca and her cousin Martina, guide the estate. For more than sixty years it has passed from family hand to family hand. That balance of tradition and innovation shows in its sustainability certification (Equalitas).
Where Veneto meets Friuli
Annone Veneto sits within the vine-growing area known as Lison-Pramaggiore. These are generous plains that have supplied good wine since the days of the Venetian Republic. This is Veneto, yet Friuli begins just next door. It is a place where two food cultures quietly blend.
This border land has a way of drinking that is almost unknown in Japan: the "tajut" (as it is called in Friulian), a small glass of wine. Locals stop by an osteria (a casual tavern) at midday or in the evening and simply ask for "a tajut," white or red, depending on the mood. They drink it down during a quick chat, nibbling on San Daniele ham or local cheese. "Tajut" comes from "taglio" (to cut, to portion out), a memory of the old habit of topping up a light wine with a splash of a fuller one. It is a relaxed little glass, not so different in spirit from Japan's idea of a casual drink.
Every bottle its own character
What makes Bosco del Merlo special is that each wine has a different face. The flagship is of course the Prosecco Millesimato Brut, a dry sparkling wine made from a single vintage (millesimato), with aromas of apple and pear. The pale-pink Prosecco Rosé Millesimato is a bottle whose sales partly support a breast-cancer prevention charity. The copper-bright Pinot Grigio Rosé keeps the natural colour of the Grigio skins in a dry style.
There are characterful reds and whites too. The Refosco Roggio dei Roveri is made from a grape called "dal Peduncolo Rosso" (red stalk) for its red stems, a variety rooted in this land. The elegant Syrah Seduzione (seduzione means "seduction") and the Sauvignon Blanc Turranio, named after a monk who once lived here, are also well worth trying.
How to enjoy it at the Japanese table
Prosecco is often assumed to be a "sweet fizz," but Bosco del Merlo's Brut is firmly dry. Well chilled (6 to 9 degrees), it works as an aperitif and right through a meal. The bubbles lightly reset the batter of tempura and karaage, and it pairs happily with gyoza and salt-seasoned yakitori. That all-round ease, from starters to mains, fits the Japanese table surprisingly well.
The rosé and Pinot Grigio Rosé go with sashimi, sushi and cold dishes. Chill them well in summer, and warm them just slightly in autumn and winter to let the fruit expand. In the spirit of the tajut, an unfussy glass on a weeknight is my very favourite way to enjoy them.
The bottle Federico reaches for first
If you are trying this producer for the first time, the one I most often pour is the Prosecco Millesimato Brut. It is friendly in price, goes with almost any food, and lifts the mood the moment it is opened. I think it is the gentlest way into the story of the Bosco del Merlo family. You can see the current stock and price from the card below.
Frequently asked questions
Q. Where is Bosco del Merlo based?
A. It is a family-run winery in Annone Veneto, Veneto, in north-east Italy. Founded in 1977, its vineyards lie on the border between Veneto and Friuli.
Q. What does "Bosco del Merlo" mean?
A. Literally, "the blackbird's wood." It comes from an old local place-name and preserves the memory of the forests that once stood here.
Q. Is Prosecco sweet?
A. Bosco del Merlo's Prosecco Millesimato Brut is dry. "Brut" means dry, an easy style to match with food.
Q. Is there a common misunderstanding?
A. People often mistake "Merlo" for the Merlot grape, but the winery's name refers to the blackbird. It has nothing to do with the grape variety.
Please enjoy, with your shoulders relaxed, a bottle the family has spent sixty years perfecting. Cin cin.
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